Opening — The Arrival
July 29, Lisbon. We landed, weary but wired — the Atlantic wind hitting us as we stepped out, the pastel façades stretching up the hills. I looked at Sheri and thought: we’re alive. We’re here. We had a map, a loose plan, and two laptops.
This blog is the first in a series of dispatches from Portugal (except for August 26 to September 15, when we were wandering through Spain and France). But this is where our heart stayed, where we built a tiny tribe, and where Slow Trotter life met the digital nomad hustle.
If you love deep cultural connection, great food, co‑working corners with a view, and walking until your feet hum in gratitude — this is for you.
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Setting the Tone — Slow Trotter + Digital Nomad Life in Portugal
Lisbon is no longer a secret among remote workers. It’s one of the European capitals that gets both postcards — and Zoom calls. Its warm climate, good internet, and rich culture draw nomads from all over.
But we’re not just nomads passing through; we wanted roots, ritual, and rhythm. We wanted to wake up, do yoga, find a café with strong WiFi, and then collapse into a late Fado night with new friends.
Lisbon’s neighborhoods like Chiado, Príncipe Real, Cais do Sodré are magnets for remote workers with their cafés, galleries, coworking and energy.
We joined the Lisbon Digital Nomads / Meetup community to plug in, meet people doing the same dance.
We sought balance: workdays with structure, wanderings through old alleys, yoga stretches in hidden studios, and nights of food, song, connection.
Lisbon & Its Seven Hills — Walking, Gear & Heart
Lisbon is not flat. It’s unashamedly vertical. We learned quickly: you must have a pair of shoes or sandals that can take steep cobbled alleys, broken calçadas, sudden stairs. (Yes, we tested that theory.) We swear by Hands Up PAKT — rugged, comfortable, stylish — the ones you can wear in a coworking space and then hike uphill to a miradouro.
Every day we climbed one (or two) hills. Alfama’s winding alleys, Mouraria’s staircases, Bairro Alto’s viewpoints — your calves feel it, but your soul wakes.
We laughed, huffed, stopped for food, wine or an espresso, then huffed again.
We also treated seamless walking as sacred: we slowed down, looked up at tiles, listened for church bells, took side alleys, got lost on purpose. This is not a race. This is immersion.
Cascais — Salt, Sea & Fado by the Shore
It wasn’t just Lisbon. We took day trips and short stays by the coast. Cascais — the wind, the sea, the light — felt like an escape from the city without really leaving Portugal.
One night, under string lights in a cozy house in town, we caught Fado at Cascais em Fado — local voices, guitars, that bittersweet saudade. cascaisemfado.wixsite.com
We savored grilled fish, bacalhau, and sang along—or tried to.
Being a digital nomad by the sea means morning waves, afternoon calls, evening salt in your hair. Cascais gave us fresh air and perspective.
Porto & Gaia — Douro Moods, Fado, River Stones
We drifted north. Porto, with its granite backbone and wine‑tinged river air, felt different than Lisbon. More grounded. More rugged.
We stayed partly in Gaia — across the river, in view of Porto’s facades flickering at dusk. The best night: Fado at Cais do Fado in Gaia. The voices echoing over the Douro, the gentle strum of guitar, the soft moan of saudade. Cais do Fado
Similarly, Fado in Porto is alive, fierce, intimate. Porto Travel Guide
We walked the Ribeira, crossed bridges, tasted port in caves, talked to local musicians, asked about lineage, about the city’s patterns. We listened to history in the stones.
Vila Verde & Ponte de Lima — Quiet Undercurrents of Portugal
Away from the big cities we found Vila Verde (in the Minho region) — lush green hills, slower days, fields and small villages. We toured farms, met locals who still speak of traditional life, sampled local cheeses, walked by streams.Then Ponte de Lima, in the heart of the Vinho Verde region. A town built on a Roman bridge, surrounded by wine, riverbanks, vineyards. We tasted young, crisp vinho verde, wandered its quiet lanes, and simply breathed slower. Porto North Portugal
It was restorative — a counterpoint to the rush of cities, a reminder that Portugal’s soul lies also in its softer edges.
Yoga, Tribe & the Overlapping Worlds
Sheri and I made sure — every base, every town — we found yoga and movement. In Lisbon we practiced in small studios tucked in alleys, sometimes outdoors facing the Tagus. We stretched sore muscles from walking days, balanced our energy.
But we also got social. I coach some American football with Lisbon’s Devils (yes, there’s a Lisbon Devil’s team). I offered coaching, created bridges between canadian football team and Portuguese locals. Football culture (American) became a playful entry point for the love of the game.
We also hosted small dinners, meetups, co-working brunches. We built a micro tribe — fellow nomads, Lisbon locals, Portuguese musicians, café owners. We asked: what keeps you here? What scares you? What do you love?
Through food, we learned. Bacalhau, caldo verde, pastéis de nata, bifanas, arroz de marisco, francesinha — every region, every chef, every small table had a story. And we were not just eating — we were listening.
On a Fado night in Alfama, I asked a singer about the meaning of “saudade.” She paused, eyes closed, fingers on string, and said: “Uma falta. Alguma coisa que nunca volta” (a longing, something that never returns). That stayed with me.
Digital Nomad Challenges + Insights
We won’t sugarcoat: being remote in Portugal has its frictions.
- Accommodation in Lisbon is competitive and rising. Portugal list Digital Nomad
- Infrastructure is good, but in rural spots WiFi can flicker or vanish.
- You need to balance your “work time” and your “Portugal time” — it’s easy to get lost in side alleys and forget your deadlines.
- The digital nomad bubble sometimes clashes with locals. (Some locals feel gentrification and displacement pressures.) The Guardian
Yet, the upside: lower cost of living than many Western capitals, deep cultural immersion, natural beauty, and a community you can plug into.
We often worked from coworking spaces in Lisbon — impact hubs, cafés, flexible desks. Nomads Embassy
We joined meetups, swapped stories, built friendships.
One thing: be humble. Don’t move in like you own the neighborhood. Buy local, speak (or try) Portuguese, respect the cadence of life.
Why Portugal Should Be Proud
Portugal is not just another European stop. It’s a place that holds you. It’s a country of contrast: sea and mountain, cornflower sky and slate rooftops, fado and festa, modern coworking next to medieval walls.
It has beauty, affordability, heart, safety — and a living culture that you can enter, not just view.
To Portugal: Obrigado. For your songs, your voices, your slow sabres of music through midnight streets. You will be in our hearts forever.
What’s Next & Call to Action
In upcoming blogs, we’ll dive into our travels through Spain and France (Aug 26–Sep 15), but also deeper into Portuguese towns we skipped: Évora, the Alentejo, Algarve.
If you want:
- Our full walking itineraries (kilometers per day, hidden staircases)
- Gear reviews (shoes, travel tech, backpacks)
- Exclusive route suggestions and maps
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Wear good shoes. Bring curiosity. Trust the alleys. Open your heart.
Portugal welcomed us — we hope you will too.
Maria’s Local‑Approved Recommendations (Our Go‑To List)
Below is the list of restaurants, music venues, bars, markets & viewpoints that our guide Maria (a real Portuguese local) swore by. These are the places we also visited (or stored in our mental Rolodex) — not tourist traps, but real culture, flavor, and atmosphere.
You can use this as a “field guide” in Lisbon (and surroundings) when you want to go off the beaten path.
🎤 FADO RESTAURANTS
Traditional Fado + Dinner (classic, iconic):
- Mesa de Frades — intimate chapel setting in Alfama.
- Clube de Fado
- Adega Machado
- Luso
- O Faia
- Maria da Mouraria
- Fado ao Carmo
Good & more affordable options (still with soul):
- Canto da Atalaia
- Tasca do Chico (in Bairro Alto / also in Alfama)
- A Baiuca
Fado show (without dinner):
- Fado in Chiado — you can book here: https://fadoinchiado.com
🍽️ PORTUGUESE / TRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS
Higher end, excellent quality:
- Solar dos Presuntos
- Adega das Gravatas
Maria’s “everyday go‑tos” (central & affordable):
- A Licorista e O Bacalhoeiro (Rossio, under the arch)
- A Marendinha do Arco (also in Rossio, under the arch)
- O Fernandinho (Chiado)
- Casa da Índia (Chiado)
- Super Mário (Chiado)
- Casa do Alentejo (Baixa)
- O Gaiteiro (Cais do Sodré)
- A Gaiola (Rua dos Bacalhoeiros) — especially for codfish cakes
In Graça:
- Botequim
- A Mourisca
- O Pitéu da Graça
- O Satélite
In Mouraria & Alfama:
- O Trigueirinho (Mouraria)
- A Muralha (Alfama)
Near Portas do Sol (end of tour):
- Tasca da Sé
- Lisboa Tu & Eu
For a quick snack or light bite:
- A Tendinha (Rossio)
🦐 SEAFOOD
- Cervejaria Ramiro — legendary, must‑go.
- Cacilhas (take the ferry from Cais do Sodré) — a cluster of good fish restaurants on the south bank
🥕 VEGETARIAN & VEGAN OPTIONS
- A Minha Avó
- Jardim das Cerejas
- O Gambuzino
- DaTerra
- Green Honest (not purely vegetarian but excellent)
- Vegan Junkies
- Psi
- Cantina da Comunidade Hindu
- Restaurante Vegano Lisboense
- Oásis
🎁 SOUVENIRS
- A Vida Portuguesa — beautiful, curated Portuguese goods, craftsmanship
🎶 LIVE MUSIC
- Fábrica Braço de Prata — eclectic, magical atmosphere
- Titanic Sur Mer — free jam nights (Mondays)
🍸 BARS IN BAIRRO ALTO
- Loucos e Sonhadores
- Arroz Doce
- Tasca do Chico (also with Fado)
- Maria Caxuxa
- Portas Largas
🌆 ROOFTOPS
- Hotel Mundial Rooftop
- TOPO
🍷 WINE BARS
- By the Wine (Rua das Flores)
- Black Sheep (Príncipe Real)
- Vini di Maria (Mouraria)
🏘️ MARKETS & VIEWPOINTS
Traditional Market:
- Feira da Ladra (Tuesdays & Saturdays)
Best Viewpoint (in Maria’s opinion):
- Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
Other favorites:
- Miradouro da Graça
- Miradouro do Monte Agudo
- Miradouro de Santa Catarina
- Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
Maria’s Local Picks — Real Portuguese Experiences
🎤 FADO RESTAURANTS
Traditional Fado + Dinner (classic, iconic):- Mesa de Frades — an intimate show in a converted chapel, with candlelight & soul. :contentReference[oaicite:0]{index=0}
- Clube de Fado — Alfama, strong reputation for authenticity. :contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1}
- Adega Machado — one of the historic houses (since 1937) combining fado & food. :contentReference[oaicite:2]{index=2}
- Luso
- O Faia
- Maria da Mouraria
- Fado ao Carmo
- Canto da Atalaia
- Tasca do Chico (Bairro Alto / Alfama)
- A Baiuca
- Fado in Chiado — pure show format. (You can book directly.)
🍽️ Portuguese / Traditional Restaurants
Higher end / exceptional:- Solar dos Presuntos
- Adega das Gravatas
- A Licorista e O Bacalhoeiro (Rossio, under the arch)
- A Marendinha do Arco (Rossio, under the arch)
- O Fernandinho (Chiado)
- Casa da Índia (Chiado)
- Super Mário (Chiado)
- Casa do Alentejo (Baixa)
- O Gaiteiro (Cais do Sodré)
- A Gaiola (Rua dos Bacalhoeiros) — especially for codfish cakes
- Botequim
- A Mourisca
- O Pitéu da Graça
- O Satélite
- O Trigueirinho (Mouraria)
- A Muralha (Alfama)
- Tasca da Sé
- Lisboa Tu & Eu
- A Tendinha (Rossio)
🦐 Seafood
- Cervejaria Ramiro — legendary seafood temple. :contentReference[oaicite:3]{index=3}
- Cacilhas (take the ferry from Cais do Sodré) — cluster of fish restaurants on the south bank
🥕 Vegetarian & Vegan Options
- A Minha Avó
- Jardim das Cerejas
- O Gambuzino
- DaTerra
- Green Honest
- Vegan Junkies
- Psi
- Cantina da Comunidade Hindu
- Restaurante Vegano Lisboense
- Oásis
🎁 Souvenirs
- A Vida Portuguesa — beautifully curated Portuguese crafts & goods.
🎶 Live Music (beyond Fado)
- Fábrica Braço de Prata — a beloved eclectic space
- Titanic Sur Mer — free jam sessions (especially Monday nights)
🍸 Bars in Bairro Alto
- Loucos e Sonhadores
- Arroz Doce
- Tasca do Chico (with Fado sometimes)
- Maria Caxuxa
- Portas Largas
🌆 Rooftops
- Hotel Mundial Rooftop
- TOPO
🍷 Wine Bars
- By the Wine (Rua das Flores)
- Black Sheep (Príncipe Real)
- Vini di Maria (Mouraria)
🏘️ Markets & Viewpoints
Traditional Market:- Feira da Ladra (Tuesdays & Saturdays)
- Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
- Miradouro da Graça
- Miradouro do Monte Agudo
- Miradouro de Santa Catarina
- Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
Tips / Notes When You Use This
- Wherever I left restaurant names without links, you can search for their websites or reservation pages and hyperlink them similarly.
- For some lesser known spots (Graça, Mouraria), a Google Maps or local directory link can help your readers find them.
- In your blog editor, you might style this as a sidebar, “cheat sheet,” or collapsible FAQ so it doesn’t become too long visually.
- You can insert your affiliate / tracking code into those URLs (or via redirection) to measure which picks readers click most.
- Add photos (your own) next to key entries (e.g. Mesa de Frades, Ramiro) to increase visual interest and SEO value (with alt tags).
- Try to keep the list updated: check links periodically (restaurants open/close, menus change).
